telemetry overlay, memory params fix, nightrider border, GPS logging

- Telemetry status bar in onroad UI: temp, fan %, model FPS, standstill
- Fix paramsMemory usage: Params("/dev/shm/params") not "/dev/shm/params/d"
- Telemetry/VPN toggles use ToggleControl with manual paramsMemory writes
- TelemetryEnabled/VpnEnabled registered PERSISTENT, written to memory path
- GPS telemetry: telemetryd subscribes to gpsLocation at 1Hz via cereal
- Nightrider: force CameraWidget bg black to eliminate color bleed border
- Suppress "Always On Lateral active" status bar message
- Re-enable gpsd and dashcamd
- CLAUDE.md: document memory params pattern, speed_limit.calculated usage

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 4.6 (1M context) <noreply@anthropic.com>

common/params.cc

@@ -199,7 +199,7 @@ std::unordered_map<std::string, uint32_t> keys = {
     {"Timezone", PERSISTENT},
     {"TrainingVersion", PERSISTENT},
     {"UbloxAvailable", PERSISTENT},
-    {"VpnEnabled", CLEAR_ON_MANAGER_START},
+    {"VpnEnabled", PERSISTENT},
     {"UpdateAvailable", CLEAR_ON_MANAGER_START | CLEAR_ON_ONROAD_TRANSITION},
     {"UpdateFailedCount", CLEAR_ON_MANAGER_START},
     {"UpdaterAvailableBranches", PERSISTENT},